Felix Review: Fire, Wine, and 1920s Swagger

At Felix, the grill is not just a cooking method. It is the mood, the rhythm, and the reason to stay for one more glass.

At Felix, the grill is not just a cooking method. It is the mood, the rhythm, and the reason to stay for one more glass

Bangkok has no shortage of restaurants that know how to dress for dinner. Felix, however, understands something slightly different: how to set a scene without letting the scene swallow the meal.

Tucked into Soi Somkid, the restaurant introduces itself as a contemporary grill house inspired by the spirit of the 1920s, but the result feels less like a themed dining room and more like a confident, low-lit address for people who still believe dinner should unfold slowly.

The premise is straightforward: fire, wine, liquor, and a room with energy. The cooking draws from American grill traditions, sharpened by French technique, with the kitchen built around timing, temperature, and clarity rather than over-decoration. On the restaurant’s own description, Felix places fire at the center of the experience, with classic American grill culture guided by French technique and ingredients left to take the lead.

Felix is overseen by seasoned chef and owner Wilfrid Hocquet

Chef-owner Wilfrid Hocquet’s fingerprints are all over the concept. He describes Felix as a new direction in his work, shaped by fire, contrast, and precision. His approach leans into the push and pull between freshness and smoke, brightness and depth, with dishes built around control rather than excess. That discipline matters in a city where grill houses often mistake size for character.

The menu reads like a grill house that knows its classics but does not want to be boxed in by them. There are oysters, pâté, tartare, carpaccio, salads, grilled fish, seafood, steaks, lamb, and the kind of side dishes that make the table feel properly indulgent. The menu also points to signature cuts (the thick cut pastrami is among the must), sauces, and comfort-driven accompaniments such as truffle mac and cheese, which feels exactly right for the room: polished, familiar, and just a little indulgent.

What makes Felix stand apart is how seriously it treats the drink program. The well-stocked bar churns out some really decadent classic cocktails, while the wine cellar holds more than five hundred references, spanning classic regions and thoughtful selections designed to move with the pace of the meal. This is not wine as a decorative backdrop, but wine as part of the restaurant’s structure.

Ambience-wise, dark wood, deep tones, a glowing bar, vintage references, and a poolside outdoor area give Felix a cinematic edge without pushing it into costume drama. The 1920s inspiration is there, but it does not feel trapped in nostalgia. The restaurant seems to understand that atmosphere works best when it encourages conversation, not when it begs to be photographed every five minutes.

There is also a pleasing confidence in the way Felix positions itself. It is not trying to be Bangkok’s loudest new opening or the most concept-heavy restaurant in town. Instead, it feels like a place designed for repeat visits: a proper dinner, a bottle shared among friends, a bar seat that turns into a late night, or a private dinner that wants more personality than a hotel function room. The restaurant also offers private dining, partial and full venue buy-outs, and customized menus for special occasions.

Felix sits in that sweet spot between polished and relaxed, serious and sociable. It has the bones of a destination restaurant but the temperament of a neighborhood favorite for people who like their evenings to begin with oysters and end later than planned.

Felix is located at 14/2 Soi Somkid, Lumphini, Bangkok. Opening hours are 5:00 PM to midnight, with free on-site parking. Reserve a table at (+66) 02 630 6467 or connect via LINE OA: @felixbkk.

[PHOTO: Courtesy of Felix]